Monday, October 29, 2007

Couture goes heavy metal


It's a rare moment when the nation's rugby fans are the most stylish group in the land. But if you peeped inside your local pub last weekend, you might have spotted one of the many fans who dressed up as Richard the Lionheart, decked out in chain mail and hose to support the troops.


Sadly, it didn't save the England team from defeat, but it did amuse the fashion crowd, because chain mail – along with all things battle-ready – is one of this winter's biggest trends.

Labels as diverse as Matthew Williamson, Christopher Kane and Chanel have gone all medieval and, with scant regard for history, have enlisted every conceivable reference, from Joan of Arc to jousting, coats of armour to the Crusades.

The love affair with armour started at Burberry Prorsum, when the label's designer, Christopher Bailey, used the brand's logo, a knight astride a snorting steed, as inspiration for his winter collection.

Taking a modern "warrior woman" as his muse, he created a series of chain-mail tabards, hand-stitched with thousands of metallic discs, and "armour-lite" dresses in satin.


Models were armed to the hilt with gauntlet gloves in black patent leather, finished with shiny silver zippers. Bags, shoes and boots bristled with studs, while wide, heavy, multi-buckled belts cinched in winter coats and jackets.

Designer and style icon Daphne Guinness has also been indulging in metalwork. In collaboration with the gold- and silver-smith Shaun Leane, she has built her own arsenal: a collection of jewelled, silver finger gauntlets which she wears with her favourite classic white shirts.

Those who need convincing that wearing shiny metal clothing can work need look no further than Cate Blanchett in her new film, Elizabeth: The Golden Age, in which she sheds her rustling skirts, corsets and farthingales.

She looks a vision of womanly power, with Titian curls streaming over a shapely suit of armour. It is not known whether the Virgin Queen ever wore armour, even when stirring her troops at Tilbury before the Spanish Armada, but, according to the wardrobe team on the film, they used creative licence because Ms Blanchett was so keen to try it out.

The silver- and gold-plated torques, cuffs and hairpieces featured in the film are by Angharad Rees, and cost from £200-£900 (020 7235 0268).

The high street has been quick to join the fray, and every fashion outlet has its own tunic- or tabard-style dress.

Topshop's version, £60 (0845 121 4519), is trimmed with chain mail. Some, like French Connection's, £150 (020 7036 7200), are covered with pewter sequins; others have a chunky jewelled or beaded choker neckline. These look amazing worn over bare skin or, if it's too chilly, with a fine black polo-neck and opaque tights underneath.

Accessories should be metallic, such as Sam Ubhi's chain-mail "dolly" bag, £48, at Liberty (020 8767 5533), and Peacocks' silvery-black sequin leggings, £10 (02920 270 222), or adorned with spurs and studs.

Alternatively, add Bertie's flat, metallic, black leather knight's boots, £85 at Shoe Studio (020 7079 7586), Via Repubblica's wet-look patent armoured bag, £369, or a chain-link belt, £49, in gold or silver, both from Fenwick (020 7629 9161), as you prepare to battle through the

Christmas party season – but don't, whatever you do, wear them all at once.

Medieval Dos and Don'ts

Do dress up a plain little black dress with a hefty silver or pewter neckpiece.
Do check out the website http://www.theknightshop.co.uk/ for inspiration.
Do cover up if there's a threat of rain — rusty chain mail is not a good look.
Do wear a metallic tabard over this season's black opaque tights.
Do leave full medieval garb strictly for fancy dress.
Don't stand too close to the fire if you're wearing a metallic skirt or dress.
Don't arm yourself with too many accessories.
Don't wear more than one chain-mail piece at a time; it's heavy.
Don't make sudden movements while wearing chunky metal cuffs — they're dangerous weapons.
Don't be tempted by medieval props — leave the sword at home.


From: Telegraph

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